Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Marvin, the Evening Star Cafe and a 2004 Cote Rotie

I was in Washington DC last week on business (where I lived for 10 years) and had a number of great meals. Two stood out.

First, was a meal at brasserie cum soul food restaurant on 14th & U called Marvin. The menu is a mixture of french classics, like moules frites, and soul food, like chicken and waffles. I stuck with the french side of the menu, and had one of my favorites -- moules frites. The moules were prepared with shallots, fennel and white wine, and were perfect for a frigid winter evening. Although there were plenty of great options on the wine list, we opted for beer instead. I washed them down with several Hoegaarden drafts (they have 5 other belgian offerings on tap). The place had great energy, and attentive service. If I still lived in DC I would go back often.

The other memorable meal was at an old favorite -- the Evening Star Cafe in the Del-Ray section of Alexandria. I had a quiet dinner with an old friend, and everything was fantastic. My entree was a brined roasted chicken, and was fantastic. If you haven't learned or tried brining in your own kitchen, you should do so ASAP. The Star's was executed to perfection -- perfectly golden crisp skin, and tender moist and flavorful chicken. Accompanying it, and my buddy's gumbo, was a 2004 Gangloff Cotie Rotie "La Babarine." It had great concentration, some blue fruit and oak on the nose, which opened up to some floral elements as the meal went on. The staff recommended it over the 2001, which was also on the list for $15 more. Some comfort food, and great wine and a great staff recommendation in made for a fantastic evening.

Finally, I want to mention another experience which was not quite as memorable -- pre-Marvin drinks at Cafe St.-Ex also on 14th street. This place is still one of my favorites from my days in DC, however on this particular Thursday, the upstairs bar was staffed by one of the slowest bartenders to ever man a tap. He paid attention to no one, save other staff members, and several women he was hitting on at the bar. He served the rest of us almost begrudgingly. Whoever is running St.-Ex has to understand that this guy is leaving money on the table with his slow motion act -- its called bar-TENDING, not bar-LOAFING. Anyway, enough of the rant.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Primi

I've started this to exercise my writing muscles and share and memorialize memorable thoughts about food, wine and travel (among other topics). The poulet demi-deuil refers to a French dish, translated as chicken in half mourning -- it consists of a chicken with so many black truffles inserted under the skin that it appears to be in mourning. I first read about it in a 2004 New Yorker article by Jim Harrison, entitled "A Really Big Lunch." I not only aspire to cook and consume the poulet demi-deuil, I aspire to do so as part of a similarly lengthy bachannalia of food and wine.

I love food and aspire to share some of my enthusiasms here.